Paper Mache “Green Man” Mask

In the video I used my usual “cloth mache” to cover the wire impression.   It’s too flimsy to add horns and other details without adding something.   You can also use regular paper mache over this wire armature.   Just use smaller newspaper strips than usual.   I found that it works well to put the wire form over the flour bag.   It supports the wire impression perfectly while you work.

On the left is the dried paper mache version.   On the right is the cloth mached version.  I still like the cloth mache.  It’s very strong and light, perfect for this purpose.

Speaking of cloth….I’ve noticed more people using plaster cloth, the stuff they use for casts when you break your arm.  You just dip strips of it in water and apply.   I suppose you could have a friend put that on your face too, to make the armature….and then sign it (ha ha).   I just think that would be way too heavy.   Some paper mache artists are now adding a “skin” of plaster cloth to their projects.  I’ve used it.  Don’t like it.  Too unwieldy.  Way too heavy for a mask you might want to wear.  And isn’t nearly as effective as the “cloth mache” when it comes to adding details.   But don’t take my word for it.  Give it a try and let me know what you think.

Back to paper mache.  For the green-man mask (that I’ll profile on this blog) I made some smaller horns.   Once again I just crumpled paper and wrapped with masking tape.  I didn’t use clothes hangers with these because they are so small.   I will paper mache these horns.  Later, when they are dry, I’ll pull the paper out from the inside.   As I mentioned, weight is an important consideration when making these masks.

To mache these horns I start at the top and work my way down adding the paper strips as I go.  Here’s something I didn’t mention in the videos.   Keeping your hands really wet with paste, turn the horn as you add the strips rather than wrapping the paper strips around the horn.  I know, this is confusing.   I think it will make more sense once you’ve done a bit of paper mache.

Paper Mache “Green Man” Mask:  Part 2

I left off with this cloth mache armature.  First, I cut the holes with my knife and scissors.  Again, those little wires will prick you if you aren’t careful.   I’m not.  I have lots of scratches and little puncture wounds.   In fact, I have them in places that didn’t get close to the mask.  Go figure.   Anyway, I made holes for my eyes, my nose, and my mouth.     Then I got out my trusty glue gun and added some teeth.   Lots.  Long pointy ones this time.

As I mentioned in the video, for a mask, weight is really important.  So even with these smaller paper mache horns I cut off the ends and pulled out as much paper as I could.   You can’t really get a shell that’s too thin.  Remember, this gets a skin of cloth mache.  That will make them very strong again no matter how thin the walls of the horns get.  So have at it.

When I was done I attached the bigger horns with hot glue.   Speaking of redundant…I always follow hot glue with masking tape.  I think I use more masking tape than I need.   I’ve been told that a number of times.   But this is America.  We are trained to use too much of everything, right?  In fact, if you want to know a secret, if the masking tape doesn’t hold well, I put hot glue under it.   How’s that for neurotic?

I decided I wanted a double chin on this guy.  I really mean, two chins.  So I cut open one of the extra little paper mache balls I had and used the shell, half on each side of the chin.  I like the effect.  From this point forward I sculpt primarily by crumpling pieces of newspaper and adding masking tape.   These features are too small for more paper mache, although I have left over pieces of shell I will use if they are handy.    I made some thick brows above the eyes by crumpling paper.    After that I decided to add some more smaller horns, a couple of rows over the top of the head.   I used aluminum foil for these.  Every so often I like working with aluminum.   It works really well for some details like small horns.   In fact, you can use sheets of aluminum for the initial armature.  You can press it over your face just like I did with the wire mess.  You can get a nice impression that way.   I know that some of you out there do that.

So I fashioned little horns out of aluminum and hot glued them onto the top of the head.  Of course I covered them with masking tape.   More is better.  Right?

Well, I thought I’d finish this mask more quickly.   Then again, I can say that about virtually everything I do.   Maybe if my brain worked in a little more linear fashion.   But no.   My life is one big tangent on a diversion.   Anyway…I left off at the horns.   Just a little more sculpting after that.   I crumpled some newspaper and added cheeks.    Then I used the shell of a little paper mache ball  and some masking tape to fashion a couple of ears.  I realize I was a little hard in my new video (Great Paper Mache Tutorial-Part 4) on blue tape.  But it deserves it.  I know it’s not meant for paper mache.  That’s okay.   But I’ve done a lot of painting in my house.  I’ve given it many a try thinking I could mask off some molding and not get paint on it.   But never, not once, has that tape worked.  Never.   Pull if off and it looks like a monkey painted the room.  I hate it.  Same with the green tape.   And that frog tape (I think they call it that).   Has ANYONE ever used that tape successfully?  Okay, no more tirades.   But I do love the regular beige masking tape.  As I’ve said in my books I’d marry it if I wasn’t already married.  And if it was a person.

I added a pointed nose.  Seems to make sense for this guy.   I added a photo of my “cloth mache” materials.  Now let me clarify something.  Of course the French word mache (with the symbols that I’m too lazy to find on my blog program) doesn’t apply to cloth.  It’s obviously not “mashed” or “chewed” cloth.    Then again, the kind of paper “mache” I use, the traditional one used in classroom, has nothing French or mashed about it either.   I know that some people do use versions of mashed paper.  They can be put off by the term cloth mache.   It doesn’t matter.   I dubbed the process cloth mache many years ago.   And that’s what it is.   And I just want to say that I still like Elmer’s glue (that’s not an ad….I don’t do ads).  It is more water soluble that PVA.   It seems a little easier to work with.   But any white glue will work fine.   I buy it by the gallon.  It costs me about $12.   And I love OLD bedsheets.   Look carefully at the one in the photo.  It is gold to me.   Soft, old.  Lovely.   If you look closely you’ll see it has yellowish stains.   I have no idea what that is.
And in case I haven’t said it enough…I tear the sheet into various sized strips.   Tearing gives you two sides that will lay flat.   I fold the strips and pull off the strings.  Then I cut them at the folds with scissors.  I showed this in Part 1 of the mask tutorial.    I like to start with the eyes when I cloth mache.   I just dip strips of cloth in the glue, fold them and then put them on like you see in the photo.   I always play with the lids for quite a while trying to get the attitude I want.
Next, the nose.  I stuff a piece of square cloth into the nose and then add pieces on top.    Sometimes I do the ears next, but this time I wanted to do the mouth.  This is just a bigger version of the eyelids.  I take a strip of cloth and fold it.  Sometimes I fold it a second time if I want thicker lips.    Three times if I’m making an Angelina Jolie mask.   I know, I’ve used that joke a dillion times.  But someday she is going to see it on her Google Alerts and write to me.

I like to put that little wrinkle under the nose.   It’s called something (I know the slang, but there is a real name too).   The mask looks nice with it.   I generally add one more fold to the bottom lip than I do to the top.  It probably doesn’t make any difference, but it feels like I’m making a more natural mouth that way.  Of course there is nothing natural about this mouth.